A comprehensive guide to the physical geography, mire ecosystems, scrub vegetation, route-planning strategies, and navigational challenges encountered when trekking around the subarctic border village of Maunu in Finnish Lapland and northern Sweden.
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| Location | Könkämäeno river valley, Enontekiö (Finland) and Kiruna Municipality (Sweden) |
|---|---|
| Coordinates | Approximately 68°28′ N, 22°58′ E |
| Elevation range | 320 m (river valley floor) to over 650 m (adjacent fell ridges) |
| Primary wetland type | Aapa mires (minerotrophic patterned string bogs) |
| Predominant scrub species | Dwarf birch (Betula nana) and gray willow (Salix glauca) |
| Average off-trail walking speed | 0.8 to 1.5 kilometres per hour in mire-scrub complexes |
| Daily energy expenditure | 3,500 to 5,000 kilocalories during sustained off-trail trekking |
| High-traffic hiking season | Mid-June to late September (snow-free window) |
| Road access | Finnish Highway 21 (E8) on east bank; Swedish Road BD 901 terminus on west bank |
Maunu is a historic border locality divided by the Könkämäeno river, situated in the far north of Fennoscandia at approximately 68°28′ N latitude. The eastern settlement lies in the Enontekiö municipality of Finnish Lapland, along the European route E8 (Finnish national road 21). The western settlement lies directly across the river in Kiruna Municipality, Norrbotten County, Sweden, where it marks the northernmost terminus of the Swedish public road network on Road BD 901. In northern hiking and wilderness travel, the area around Maunu forms a transitional zone between the open subarctic fells (in Finnish, tunturit) of the Scandinavian mountain chain and the vast peatland systems of the Muonio river drainage basin.
For long-distance hikers and off-trail trekkers moving between the high tundra and the river corridor, the landscape around Maunu is recognized as one of the most physically demanding environments in northern Europe. Approaching the Könkämäeno valley from the surrounding uplands requires navigating through dense thickets of dwarf birch and subarctic willow, saturated peatlands, and glacial boulder deposits. While marked trail systems exist in designated national parks elsewhere in Lapland, the terrain directly flanking Maunu is largely unmaintained wilderness that demands advanced dead reckoning, precise topographical map analysis, and sustained physical endurance.
The primary difficulties of traveling through this sector stem from micro-topographical barriers that are rarely visible on standard large-scale regional overviews. Saturated aapa mires, deep peat trenches, and springy, interlocking woody scrub impede linear progress, frequently reducing unassisted walking speeds to less than one kilometre per hour. Hikers who traverse this landscape must adapt their navigational strategies away from direct compass bearings, relying instead on elevation contouring along dry glacial moraines and gravel eskers to conserve metabolic energy and avoid dangerous mire sinkholes.
Geographical Setting and Elevation Profile
The Maunu area occupies the upper catchment of the Muonio River system, where the Könkämäeno forms the international border between Finland and Sweden established under the 1809 Treaty of Fredrikshamn. The river valley floor rests at an elevation of approximately 320 to 330 metres above sea level. Surrounding this trough are undulating plateau highlands, terminal moraines, and rounded fells that rise to elevations between 450 and 700 metres.
To the northeast of Finnish Maunu lies the Tarvantovaara Wilderness Area (Tarvantovaaran erämaa-alue), a 670-square-kilometre protected wilderness characterized by expansive aapa bogs, isolated fell ridges, and mountain birch forests. To the northwest lies the corridor leading toward the Käsivarsi Wilderness Area and the high Scandinavian Caledonides. Across the river to the west and southwest, the Swedish landscape ascends toward the Råstojaure (Rostojávri) plateau, an alpine tundra zone shared between Sweden and Norway.
The transition from the upland fells down to the valley of the Könkämäeno is not a smooth, continuous slope. Instead, it consists of a stepped series of glacial benches, morainic terraces, and low-lying, water-retaining depressions. As water drains from the fell tops toward the central river, it collects in these structural benches, feeding complex wetland ecosystems that saturate the ground for kilometres before reaching the main channel.
Physical Geography and Surface Obstacles
Navigating the terrain around Maunu requires an understanding of three primary geomorphological features: patterned peatlands, periglacial boulder fields, and glacial depositional ridges. Each surface presents distinct mechanical challenges to human locomotion.
Aapa Mires and Peatland Systems
The lower elevations surrounding Maunu are dominated by aapa mires (also known as patterned string bogs or aapasuot in Finnish). Aapa mires are minerotrophic wetlands, meaning they receive water and nutrients not only from direct precipitation but also from groundwater and surface runoff flowing down from the adjacent mineral slopes. Because the surrounding topography directs a continuous volume of snowmelt and runoff into these basins, the water table remains at or above the ground surface throughout the entire summer.
Aapa mires exhibit a distinct microtopography of alternating ridges and depressions arranged perpendicular to the direction of water flow:
- Strings (jänteet): Elevated ridges composed of peat, sphagnum mosses, and low shrubs. Strings vary in width from several decimetres to several metres and provide the only relatively firm footing across a wetland.
- Flarks (rimmet or rimpit): Wet depressions, mud pools, or open standing water situated between the strings. Flarks consist of unconsolidated, anaerobic peat and aquatic sedges. The depth of soft silt and decomposing organic matter in a flark can range from 30 centimetres to over 1.5 metres, creating a sinking hazard for loaded hikers.
In addition to standard aapa structures, the permafrost boundary in northern Enontekiö gives rise to palsa mires (palsasuot) in specific cold peat basins. Palsas are peat mounds with permanently frozen ice cores that can rise several metres above the water table. The summits of palsas are dry and brittle, often cracked by frost action, while their margins are frequently surrounded by collapsing, semi-liquid thaw ponds that are impassable on foot.
Blockfields and Frost Shatter (Rakka)
On the upper slopes and fell plateaus surrounding the Maunu valley, bedrock is frequently buried beneath extensive blockfields, locally termed rakka. These fields of angular boulders were produced by periglacial frost shattering during and after the last glacial retreat. The boulders, predominantly composed of resistant granites, gneisses, and schists, range in size from hand-held cobbles to multi-tonne slabs.
Walking over blockfields requires constant balance adjustments and stability testing. In wet conditions or during low-cloud events, lichens covering the rocks (primarily Umbilicaria and Rhizocarpon species) absorb moisture and become extremely slick. Hidden voids between boulders, often partially concealed by thin carpets of moss or dwarf shrubs, present a significant risk of lower-limb entrapment and musculoskeletal injury.
Glacial Moraines and Eskers
Between the wet valley bottom and the boulder-strewn fell tops lie glacial depositional features, including lateral moraines, ground moraines, and esker chains (harjut). Eskers are long, winding ridges of stratified sand and gravel deposited by subglacial meltwater streams. In the Maunu region, these ridges run roughly parallel to ancient meltwater trajectories and modern drainage corridors.
Because their coarse, granular composition allows rainwater to drain rapidly, esker crests are dry and support open ground cover, such as reindeer lichen (Cladonia) and lingonberry. For this reason, glacial ridges serve as the primary natural movement corridors through the subarctic landscape, offering firm footing and unobstructed visibility.
Vegetation Density and Travel Resistance
The vegetation structure of the subarctic transitional zone directly dictates travel speed, caloric burn, and route feasibility. In the Maunu area, the tree line sits at approximately 400 to 500 metres above sea level, depending on microclimatic exposure and soil moisture. Below this threshold, distinct plant communities create severe mechanical resistance to off-trail movement.
| Vegetation Type | Primary Plant Species | Typical Height Range | Locomotion Resistance | Estimated Walking Speed |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Willow scrub (Pajukko) | Salix glauca, Salix lanata, Salix phylicifolia | 1.0 m – 2.5 m | Extreme; dense, elastic branching; requires physical pushing | 0.5 – 1.0 km/h |
| Dwarf birch heath (Vaivaiskoivikko) | Betula nana | 0.3 m – 0.8 m | High; springy, interlocked stems catch feet and trekking poles | 1.0 – 2.0 km/h |
| Mountain birch forest (Tunturikoivikko) | Betula pubescens subsp. czerepanovii | 2.0 m – 5.0 m | Moderate; crooked trunks, variable understory of shrubs and moss | 2.5 – 3.5 km/h |
| Esker lichen heath | Cladonia spp., Empetrum nigrum, Vaccinium vitis-idaea | 0.05 m – 0.15 m | Minimal; firm, well-drained gravel base with low ground cover | 4.0 – 5.0 km/h |
| Aapa mire flark | Carex spp., Sphagnum spp., Eriophorum spp. | 0.1 m – 0.4 m (water-saturated) | Severe; deep mud suction, submerged root obstacles | 0.5 – 1.2 km/h |
Willow Thickets (Pajukko)
Subarctic willow thickets concentrate along watercourses, drainage channels, and the saturated margins of aapa mires. The dominant species—gray willow (Salix glauca), woolly willow (Salix lanata), and tea-leaved willow (Salix phylicifolia)—grow in dense, multi-stemmed clusters with highly flexible, resilient wood.
Trekking through mature willow scrub requires a hiker to continuously push through spring-loaded branches that snap back under tension. The dense canopy obscures the ground entirely, hiding deep peat holes, submerged rocks, and braided stream channels. Footwear and gear straps frequently catch on low-lying lateral branches, increasing the risk of falls and damaging equipment.
Dwarf Birch Tangles (Betula nana)
Dwarf birch (vaivaiskoivu) blankets the transitional zone between the forest line and the fell tundra, as well as the drier hummocks within mires. While low-growing in exposed locations, in sheltered hollows and subarctic drainage areas it routinely reaches knee-to-waist height.
The stems of Betula nana are tough, woody, and intricately branched. Rather than yielding under footfall, the shrubs form an elastic, spring-like mat that absorbs downward energy and rebounds against the shins. Over sustained periods, stepping over and through continuous dwarf birch produces severe physical fatigue in the hip flexor and quadriceps muscle groups, while simultaneously wearing through fabric gaiters and boot leather.
Hydrology and Water Crossings
The drainage network around Maunu is defined by the Könkämäeno river and dozens of tributary streams (known locally as ojat for smaller ditches/brooks, or joet for larger streams). The Könkämäeno itself is a wide, cold, and fast-flowing river that cannot be forded on foot under any circumstances near Maunu. Its discharge is fed by the vast Kilpisjärvi basin and alpine snowfields further north, resulting in deep main channels, swift currents, and near-freezing water temperatures through early summer.
Hikers operating in the backcountry around Maunu must routinely cross secondary tributaries and drainage networks. Navigating these watercourses involves distinct physical hazards:
Peat-Bottom Streams
Streams flowing out of aapa mires rarely have stable gravel bottoms. Instead, their beds are composed of unconsolidated peat silt and saturated clay. When stepped into, the bed can compress suddenly under human weight, causing a trekker to sink past the knee into anoxic mud. Furthermore, the water in these streams is heavily stained with humic acids, giving it a dark, tea-like or black appearance that completely obscures underwater depth, submerged root systems, and undercut banks.
Meltwater Surges and Thermal Shock
Tributary volume fluctuates significantly based on temperature and recent precipitation. Warm spells in June trigger rapid snowmelt across the fell plateaus, transforming minor trickles into waist-deep, non-navigable torrents within hours. Water temperatures in these streams rarely exceed 4°C to 8°C during peak runoff.
Submersion in water of this temperature causes immediate cutaneous vasoconstriction, rapid loss of peripheral motor control in the feet and ankles, and an elevated risk of hypothermia. Crossing must be undertaken methodically, unbuckling backpack hip belts to permit rapid shedding of the pack in the event of a slip, and utilizing trekking poles to maintain a three-point base of support.
Navigational Techniques and Strategy
Standard navigation practices developed for marked trail systems or temperate environments are ineffective in the wilderness surrounding Maunu. The lack of distinct linear features in the valley bottom, coupled with dense ground cover and wetland complexity, necessitates specialized overland navigation strategies.
The Contouring Principle
The most important strategic principle when traversing the approach to Maunu is elevation contouring. In cross-country wilderness travel, a straight line between two waypoints (a direct compass bearing) is often the slowest and most hazardous route possible. In the subarctic boreal-tundra ecotone, dropping directly down the fall line toward the valley floor steers the hiker straight into the lowest, wettest, and most densely vegetated zone: the mire-scrub complex.
Experienced wilderness navigators utilize the contouring technique:
- Maintain Elevation: Rather than dropping into the river valley early, the hiker maintains an elevation on the upper fell flank (typically between 400 and 500 metres), just above the continuous forest and willow line.
- Traverse Dry Moraines: The route tracks horizontally along the slope, cutting across stable dwarf-shrub heath or low lichen tundra, where visibility is broad and surface resistance is minimal.
- Perpendicular Descent: When directly adjacent to the intended destination or an accessible infrastructure point (such as Highway 21 on the Finnish side), the hiker executes a single, short, perpendicular descent through the scrub and mire belt, minimizing exposure to the low-speed valley bottom to the shortest possible distance.
Although contouring adds horizontal distance and modest vertical elevation changes to the itinerary, it consistently reduces overall transit times and metabolic strain by allowing walking speeds of 3.5 to 4.5 kilometres per hour on open ground, compared to under 1 kilometre per hour in the valley floor.
Map Reading and Feature Identification
Navigation in this sector requires top-tier topographic maps, specifically the 1:50,000 scale Maastokartta produced by the National Land Survey of Finland (Maanmittauslaitos), or the corresponding Fjällkartan (scale 1:50,000 or 1:100,000) from the Swedish Lantmäteriet. Effective route planning hinges on interpreting subtle cartographic symbology:
- Wetland Hatching: Solid blue lines or dense blue dashed hatchings indicate difficult or impassable bogs with open flarks. Light, widely spaced wetland symbols denote seasonal or passable damp ground.
- Contour Clustering: Closely spaced contour lines indicate steep morainic scarps or rock ledges. When contour lines spread out broadly at low elevations near water bodies, they almost universally indicate saturated, slow-moving peat flats.
- Esker Symbols: Narrow, continuous linear elevation humps flanked by small depression contours identify glaciofluvial eskers. These should be linked together across the route plan to serve as natural elevated footpaths.
- Vegetation Boundaries: Green tints represent commercial or closed forest cover, while unshaded white areas on Scandinavian topographic maps typically denote open ground or fell tundra above the tree line. The interface between white and green marks the subalpine mountain birch zone, where navigation requires increased vigilance due to reduced sightlines.
Geomagnetism and Electronic Devices
The high northern latitude of Maunu introduces operational factors that impact standard navigation instruments. The magnetic declination in the Enontekiö region is roughly 11° to 13° East (increasing slightly depending on the year due to polar drift). Hikers utilizing baseplate compasses must systematically correct their grid bearings to avoid significant drift to the east over several kilometres of travel.
While Global Navigation Satellite Systems (such as GPS, Galileo, and GLONASS) provide excellent positional accuracy due to good satellite geometry over northern Scandinavia, electronic devices face severe environmental limitations:
- Battery Depletion: Subarctic ambient temperatures, particularly during autumn frosts or cold, rain-driven summer windstorms, accelerate the discharge rate of lithium-ion batteries. Devices kept in exterior pack pockets can lose full functional charge within hours.
- Hardware Redundancy: Navigators must not rely solely on digital mapping applications. Physical, waterproofed topographic paper maps and liquid-damped magnetic compasses are required backup equipment.
- Satellite Communication: Emergency satellite messengers (e.g., Iridium-network-based devices) maintain functional coverage at 68° N, but signal acquisition can be delayed in steep stream gullies or when high valley shoulders obscure the southern and western horizons.
Physiological Demands and Field Logistics
Trekking through the wilderness zones surrounding Maunu imposes high metabolic demands on the human body. The physical work of high-stepping out of saturated moss, balancing on unstable boulders, and pushing through dense dwarf birch leads to exceptional daily energy expenditure.
Metabolic Expenditure and Caloric Balance
A trekker carrying an expedition pack weighing 20 to 25 kilograms over open, level terrain typically burns between 2,800 and 3,200 kilocalories per day. When moving off-trail through aapa mires and dense scrub, this figure rises dramatically. The continuous mechanical resistance of wet brush, the added weight of water-logged footwear, and the core thermoregulatory energy required to counter cool, damp winds push daily caloric requirements to between 4,000 and 5,000 kilocalories.
Failure to match this energy output with adequate caloric intake causes rapid physical deterioration. Muscle glycogen stores become depleted within 24 to 48 hours of sustained travel, leading to physical exhaustion, impaired motor coordination, and reduced cognitive capacity for route-finding decisions. Hikers attempting remote crossings near Maunu must plan high-energy, nutrient-dense food rations rather than standard recreational trail diets.
Footwear Management and Immersion Foot
Because the terrain is continuously water-saturated, maintaining completely dry feet during summer and early autumn off-trail travel is functionally impossible. Hikers generally utilize one of two footwear philosophies, each with specific trade-offs:
- Rubber Boots (Kumisaappaat): Long a standard choice among local Finnish and Sámi populations. High-shaft rubber boots (such as dedicated Nordic hiking boots with rigid steel-shank midsoles) provide 100% waterproof protection up to mid-calf height, keeping feet dry through shallow bogs and wet dwarf birch. However, if water overtops the shaft during a deep bog misstep or river ford, the boots trap water, dry extremely slowly in the field, and offer limited ankle support on steep, rocky rakka blockfields.
- Non-Waterproof Trail Runners or Membrane Boots: Modern long-distance trekkers often opt for breathable trail running shoes or lightweight synthetic boots, combined with wool socks and neoprene liners. This system accepts that the feet will become wet immediately, prioritizing rapid drainage, lower swing weight, and quick evaporation. The primary risk of this approach is prolonged skin maceration and cooling in water temperatures near freezing.
Prolonged exposure to cold, wet conditions inside footwear can precipitate non-freezing cold injury, historically known as immersion foot or trench foot. The condition is characterized by erythema, numbness, tingling, and tissue damage. Preventing immersion foot in the Maunu backcountry requires strict campsite protocol: removing wet footwear immediately upon pitching a shelter, thoroughly drying the feet, putting on dedicated, dry sleeping socks, and treating any early-stage maceration with barrier creams.
Seasonal Factors and Environmental Conditions
The Arctic and subarctic seasons dictate ground conditions, water levels, and physical exposure around Maunu. Trekking feasibility shifts dramatically across four distinct phases of the snow-free year.
Spring Snowmelt and Break-Up (Kelirikko)
From early May through early June, the region undergoes kelirikko (the spring thaw and breakup period). Large expanses of the fells remain covered in rotting, unsupportive snowpacks, while the mires become continuous shallow lakes of ice-cold meltwater. Rivers and small drainage channels swell to their highest annual levels. Cross-country pedestrian travel during kelirikko is dangerous, environmentally damaging to fragile thawing soils, and practically impossible in the mire valleys.
Early Summer and the Midnight Sun (Late June to July)
Continuous daylight (the Midnight Sun) persists at this latitude from late May until late July, eliminating the risk of accidental nighttime travel and allowing 24-hour flexibility in routing. However, this period coincides with maximum insect emergence (räkkä), where vast populations of mosquitoes (Culicidae), blackflies (Simuliidae), and biting midges (Ceratopogonidae) hatch from the warming aapa mires.
The psychological and physical stress of severe insect harassment can degrade a hiker's patience and concentration, leading to rushed navigational decisions. Fine-mesh headnets, tight-weave clothing, and bug-proof shelters are essential survival equipment during this period.
Late Summer and Autumn Colours (Ruska)
Late August through mid-September is the primary window for serious off-trail backpacking in the Maunu region. By late August, nighttime temperatures frequently drop below freezing, eliminating the insect swarms. The wetland water table drops to its seasonal low, stabilizing the margins of aapa mires and lowering stream discharges to manageable wading levels.
This period brings ruska, the subarctic autumn color change, when dwarf birch turns bright red, mountain birch shifts to gold, and ground shrubs provide an abundance of edible berries (such as cloudberries, bilberries, and lingonberries). However, the daylight window contracts rapidly by six to eight minutes per day, night freezes are routine, and early polar storms can bring sudden, hypothermia-inducing sleet or snow down to valley levels.
Winter Freeze-Up (Kaamos and Beyond)
From late October onward, winter conditions set in. Waterways and aapa mires freeze, and deep snow blankets the scrub and blockfields. Under stable winter conditions, the terrain that is nearly impassable on foot during the summer transforms into smooth, consolidated surfaces well-suited for Nordic ski touring (retkihiihto) and snowmobile transit. However, winter travelers face extreme cold (temperatures frequently drop below -30°C to -40°C), minimal daylight culminating in the polar night (kaamos), and severe blizzard hazards.
Historical and Regional Context
The settlement of Maunu itself has deep roots in northern Fennoscandian pastoral, trade, and borderland history. Long before the imposition of modern state borders, the region was an integral part of Sápmi, the cultural homeland of the indigenous Sámi people. The local Northern Sámi communities utilized the valleys and fells for seasonal reindeer herding migrations, moving herds between winter pastures in the sheltered taiga forests to the south and summer pastures on the high fells and Arctic coast.
Traditional travel across this landscape was highly attuned to terrain efficiency. Sámi herders and early Finnish settlers did not fight through the summer mires on foot; they used the Könkämäeno river as a waterborne transportation artery via wooden longboats (jokiveneet) during the ice-free months, or traversed the frozen wetland surface using reindeer-drawn sleds (pulkat) and skis during the long winter.
The division of Maunu into two distinct national entities occurred as a result of the Finnish War of 1808–1809, in which the Kingdom of Sweden ceded its eastern provinces (now Finland) to the Russian Empire. The border was delineated along the deepest channel (thalweg) of the Torne and Muonio river systems, running straight through the community of Maunu. On the Swedish side, modern vehicular road construction halted permanently at Maunu, leaving the western village as a quiet dead-end. On the Finnish side, Highway 21 expanded into the primary international transport artery connecting the Gulf of Bothnia to the Arctic Ocean at Kilpisjärvi and Tromsø.
Safety and Emergency Preparedness
Due to the absence of maintained trail corridors, remote wilderness travel around Maunu requires robust self-reliance and comprehensive safety protocols.
Search and Rescue Limitations
In the event of a severe medical emergency or immobilization, search and rescue operations are coordinated by the Finnish Border Guard (Rajavartiolaitos) and the Lapland Police Department on the Finnish side, or the Swedish Mountain Rescue service (Fjällräddningen) under the Swedish Police Authority on the Swedish side. Voluntary rescue organizations (such as the Finnish Voluntary Rescue Service, Vapepa) provide experienced ground personnel.
However, atmospheric and topographic realities severely limit rescue response speeds:
- Aviation Constraints: Low cloud ceilings, high winds, and dense fog frequently ground rescue helicopters. In aapa mire terrain, helicopters cannot easily land on soft peat surfaces, requiring specialized hoisting gear or extended ground marches by rescue personnel.
- Cellular Gaps: While terrestrial mobile phone reception (4G/5G) is generally continuous along the Finnish E8 highway corridor, signal strength drops off sharply once a hiker enters the folds, stream depressions, and reverse slopes of the fell valleys further inland.
- Evacuation Delays: A ground evacuation from the interior wetlands or the Tarvantovaara fell borders to the nearest road can take anywhere from six to twenty-four hours, even with specialized off-road tracked vehicles or snowmobiles (in season). Trekkers must carry shelter and thermal insulation capable of sustaining an injured person for multiple days in severe weather.
Environmental Hypothermia Risk
The primary environmental threat in the Maunu region during the trekking season is not wildlife or physical falls, but progressive exhaustion hypothermia. The subarctic maritime-continental climate can produce sudden shifts in conditions, where ambient temperatures drop from 18°C to near freezing within a few hours, accompanied by driving, horizontal rain and wind.
A hiker who is physically exhausted from fighting scrub terrain, suffering from caloric deficit, and clad in damp clothing can slide rapidly into clinical hypothermia. Early signs—shivering, loss of fine motor coordination (such as the inability to operate zippers or adjust compass bezels), and mental apathy—require an immediate, decisive halt to travel. The party must pitch an emergency four-season tent or tarp, insulate the affected individual from the wet ground using closed-cell foam pads, strip away saturated clothing, and supply warm liquids and rapid-acting carbohydrates before attempting any further movement.
See also
- Maunu (disambiguation and village overview)
- Enontekiö
- Könkämäeno
- Muonio River
- Aapa mire
- Palsa
- Tarvantovaara Wilderness Area
- Käsivarsi Wilderness Area
- Karesuando
- Fell (tunturi)
- Arctic navigation
Sources
Questions people asked
What are the geographical and terrain challenges of hiking to Maunu near Karesuando?
The approach to Maunu is legendary for breaking hikers' spirits.
Once you drop off the fells toward the Muonioälven valley, you hit the classic northern maze: sprawling aapa mires, peat trenches, and endless dwarf birch/willow scrub so tangled it feels like wading through barbed wire.
Progress slows to barely a kilometre an hour, and burning 4,000 calories while rationing half-meals in damp freezing weather is miserable. It's the ultimate reminder of why contouring high along the dry stony ridges is worth every metre of extra climbing!